The latest issue of Wine Spectator hails the advent of “green” wine, and extols the virtue of West Coast vintners who are “fighting for the environment.”

While this is a welcome development, what Spectator fails to mention is that organic farming is not new to the wine industry. Italian and German producers (and several on the West Coast) have been doing it for years without tooting their own horns. Now it’s become the latest California fashion and American consumers are finally hearing about it.

So what is “organic” viticulture? According to the Society of Wine Educators, it “…is an attempt to build the soil, protect the environment, encourage biodiversity, and protect the health of employees and consumers alike while growing a healthy crop at a profit level that affords land maintenance. In its purest form, organic viticulture attempts to build the health of the soil…by adding compost and manure and by eliminating all synthetic products that would create a toxic environment for local flora and fauna.”

In other words, it means growing and making wine in such a manner that has a minimal impact on the environment.

There are other breeds of organic viticulture, such as biodynamic and sustainable viticulture, but they all have the same goal of mitigating the effect of the winemaking process on the local ecosystem.

Many California wineries have been practicing organic farming for decades with little fanfare, and several don’t even mention this on their labels for fear of being thought of by wine connoisseurs as substandard.

So is organically produced wine better for you than wine produced in more traditional methods? The main difference is that it means there is less chance for synthetic chemicals to make their way into your wine glass. There is, however, a great deal of misconception about one particular substance—sulfites—that needs to be cleared up before proceeding. First of all, sulfites are a naturally occurring substance in wines, as they are a by-product of fermentation. Additionally, most winemakers (those who are not practicing organic) add some sulfites to prevent spoilage and allow for long-term aging, one of the great joys of wine.

Why do wine labels in the U.S. say "contains sulfites"? Because U.S. labeling laws require it to forewarn the infinitesimal percentage of the population who are allergic to sulfites.

How do you know if you have a sulfite allergy? You will get a classic allergic reaction--itchy, watery eyes, hives, sneezing, etc.--after consuming anything with sulfites, including wine, beer, and orange juice. If you get headaches from drinking wine, especially red wine, this is more likely an indication of sensitivity to tannins (a substance found in grape skins), and you should avoid big, tannic reds (such as most Cabernet Sauvignons).

If you have a personal preference for organic wines, whatever your reasons, keep in mind that organically produced reds are not made for long-term aging (because of their lack of preservatives). They should be consumed as quickly as one would typically consume a white wine.

Also, if you’re looking for organic wine, be sure to go to a trusted source—such as your local specialty wine retailer—to find it. While organic practices are becoming more widespread, many organic wines aren’t designated as such on the label. A good wine shop will have a staff who can point you toward organically produced wines and help you pick out something that meets your personal tastes and budget.

In the meantime, if you’re looking for more information on this topic, here are a couple of terrific websites to visit:
Organic Wine Journal
Organic Consumers Organization

Written by Jennifer Faircloth
Co-owner of Anytime Wines, Your Neighborhood Shop for Fine Wines & Fun Time
Phone (919) 303-WINE